You see Shodoshima long before you reach it. As you enter the harbour at Kusakabe you can see a mountain ring rising all around you from the blue water. Surrounded by mountains and with a minimum of concrete buildings on the waterfront, you have the first hint that this may be the place you were looking for in Japan, one relatively unspoiled by rampant building. Suddenly you see cars approaching the port at a pace that says highway and realize that this place is completely settled. It will not be wild in the sense that some of the smaller islands are, with more overgrowth and old houses than big roads. You remind yourself that there is a thriving tourist industry here, although the ferry is sparsely populated with cars and people at this time of year.
Driving out of the ferry you see the usual town sights, but isn't there a bit more relaxation in the air? Islanders seem to be walking and driving just that tiny bit slower than those on Shikoku. On the road to Takamatsu, you have been surprised at a woman on a bicycle with a big unexplained smile on her face. It makes you realize that spontaneous smiling is very rare. But here on Shodoshima you expect smiles, even if they are your own. Because there is open space, natural softwood and pine and scrub forests instead of planted sugi (Japanese cedar), rising toothy mountains the colour of early spring, all soft browns and maroons and tarry greens, and there is the blue sparkling sea on the left, as you move away from the town in search of the origin of the Japanese olive.
I don't know much of the history of olive growing in Japan. What I do know has been gleaned from a few websites. I know that olives were planted in several places, but they only thrived here in the area known as the "Japanese Mediterranean". That is principally Shodoshima, but olives also grow on the facing coast of Okayama prefecture, in Ushimado. There they grow mainly on a hillside facing the sea, just underneath the Okayama Villa, where non-Japanese and their guests can stay very cheaply. This villa is architect-designed and offers sea views, a kind of better-grade hostel. There's a kitchen where you can cook, too. And what you might want to be cooking is something with olives. But Ushimado doesn't offer any large stores, so you had better bring supplies with you.
In Shodoshima olives grow everywhere in people's yards, but a visitor can see them principally in the "Olive Park". It's a controlled hillside, Japanese to the core in its use of Greek-replicate buildings. There's a big concrete statue of a grindstone, presumably used to grind the olives and extract the oil. I can't find much out on this trip because there's no one to ask, and I would need a lot of translation. Only the gift shop and herb greenhouse seem to be open. But there is the beautiful gray-green colour and sensuous textures of the olive leaves against the sky, and there is the whole open hillside with few people; the air tastes fresh and there is no ash or mold or thickness to it. It is fluid, like good olive oil pouring out of a carafe and it has some of the same tang.
And fake-Greek or not, it is beautiful here. Things have been done with attention to colour and space. Nothing is crowded. The white buildings look wonderful next to the green olive trees, and blue sky and the sparkling sea is visible from almost everywhere. I am starting to relax kinks that I didn't even know I had grown. I remember that this always happens to me when I get to a forest or an open space in Japan. It's as if my whole body is sighing with relief. Here, at least, is a small sanctuary.
There is a garden where you can see examples of some of the varieties of olive trees they are growing. Plaques give the names and though I'm no expert, I notice that they are growing one of my favourites, Kalamata olives.
Farther up the hillside, there is a new area of planting, with rows of small olive bushes. I notice that the soil is sandy and a bit dry. When I walk down the rows and come to the outdoor herb garden I begin to be amazed at the varieties I see. And they are all very very healthy. When I pinch small leaves off and rub them between my fingers the scents are strong and bright, much more intense than I've experienced anywhere. There's Rose geranium with a heady perfume, different varieties of lavenders and sages, each with a distinctive scent.
When I've finished wandering around outside there is a large green house full of starter plants to buy. It is full of light and there are large Rosemary plants in full flower, covered with thousands of tiny purple blossoms. There is peppermint, spearmint, apple mint and even cat mint, though I passed that up, thanks, since I've already got the smell from a few Tom cats visiting my back garden. There's an intense Mexican sage, that I can't imagine using in cooking unless it was in a very spicy sauce. I found a delicate chervil plant, and bought seeds for spicy Rocket and Sweet Basil. A small Chamomile plant in early bloom, I bought just for its appley summer scent. And I bought a small peppermint to replace those that were in my garden, but burned up in the summer sun 2 years ago. Okay, I'll stop now, but perhaps you've figured out that I am passionate about herbs and that this was one of my favourite places in Japan.
After looking around and smelling to my heart's content, I bought a few things at the shop. I got some extra-virgin and pure olive oils and some cans of black olives to try. There were no testers so I was a little reluctant to get too much without tasting. Then I and my friend ended the visit at the cafe upstairs with a relaxing cup of herb tea. Mine was "Olive Fantasy" with just a hint of olive tang and cool peppermint. It was delicious.
Apparently Shodoshima also produces a famous soy sauce. On the boat going back, next to our car was the shiniest silver tanker truck I had ever seen. My companion told me it was a soy sauce truck. It was so clean and shiny that I thought they must have some junior employee polishing it every day. Unfortunately, a little sleepy from the trip back, I didn't get a picture. The boat is very comfortable and the seats are really cushy arm chairs that even recline if you like. So with the vibration from the engines, its easy to fall asleep.
I loved my trip to Shodoshima. But my stay was a bit too short. I wanted to find out more about olive oil growing and production, but I will have to do a bit of research and find out where the Toyo company (the name on the bottles of olives I bought) is and if I can get a look at it. But I will welcome any excuse to go back. In fact, I hated to leave it. I haven't seen even half of the island. Apparently, there is a beautiful gorge to hike.
And I want to see olives on the trees next time.
